all the bed modifications, let me say that was a lot of the welding on truk.įirst let me compliment "ogre" on a very nice truck and a very nice job welding it. all frame modifications, including: 1/4" must II x-member, motor mounts, 700r4 x-member, full boxing of the frame, c-notch, spring pads on rear axle and brackets galore. Most of my hot rod 58 truk was welded with a lincoln weldpk 100 fluxcore welder. if you've only welded with mig, your still a non-welder. even sched 40 pipe is welded in 3 passes. as for thickness? no welder will weld 2" anything, yet 2" everything gets welded everyday with multiple passes. stick/tig/mig/fluxcore/carbonarc fabrication.Īny one that says you can't weld with fluxcore, doesn't know how to weld. i am an experienced welder/fabricator, did stick pipe welding for a many years. look at any rearend, most of the brackets, backing plate flanges and spring pads are welded on with fluxcore welders. While i'm not a fan of anything from harbor fright with a cord, i am a fan of fluxcore welders. ![]() This is a pretty decent welder and the customer service was great. I can swithch it to weld thicker stuff, but I have my Miller for that. 023 wire for sheetmetal.so I bought this and set it up just to do sheetmetal. I hate changing liners and rollers and tips to weld. I'm basically a Miller guy, but I picked up an Esab a while back because it was a good deal. Its way more than you want to spend, but something like this one or a similar one from the manufacturers above would be great. He was 1800 miles away and he learned how to use it on his own prettymuch. I bought a Miller 212 with Autoset for my son when he was in the service. Instead of trying to figure out what settings you need, you simply place the dial on the thickness of the material you want to weld and it adjusts for that. ![]() Yes it will cost more but you will love how easy it is to use for a beginner. My recommendation is that you purchase a Miller (or Hobart or Lincoln or Esab) that has "Autoset". Lots of little differences that you don't think about. When you are welding thick stuff its less of a problem, but when you are welding thin stuff the infinite control is much better. With a better machine you have infinite control where you can make a minor adjustment. ![]() With many machines the knobs have distinct settings that they click to. Things you won't notice are the stuff you wish you had later on. Hobart is like a Miller somewhat but a little less expensive. He then bought a Hobart and has been using it ever since. He was immediately disappointed with it and luckily was able to return it.but had to pay for shipping both ways. When it arrived it looked like a toy with all the undersize stuff. Had a friend years ago that bought a Clarke welder. Not only is the gun smaller but the cable is shorter making it hard to get to some things. The rollers that feed the wire often slip and replacement parts aren't available. ![]() The cheap welders downsize the gun and clamp and cable. Buy a good one and enjoy it forever, or scimp by and regret it. Seriously though, a welder is a "lifetime" tool. Buying a cheap welder is about the equivalent of buying a cheap condom.you will regret it later. You will find lots of variation in the ability of these machines when operating at its limits. If you have to weld something that is 1/8" thick, don't buy a welder thats rated to do 1/8.thats its maximum. The problem with getting something with marginal or little capability is you always end up needing to weld something else thats thicker.
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